(Guanabacoa is Cuba’s cradle of Santería and today’s epicenter for the faith). “I descend into a trance,” says the priestess when asked to describe how she communes with the saints and ...

vehemently replies Luisa Carrera, a Santería santera (priestess), when asked if Cuba’s downturn has attracted followers. “My flock grows daily with their sorrows.” This visitor has been invited into ...